The name Bunky’s Café brings to mind a greasy-spoon diner or grill serving hamburgers and fries to sports fans headed to a Badger game. Instead, this quirky eatery on the near-east side in Madison serves up a mixture of dishes of Italian and Mediterranean origin, and is open for lunch and dinner on most days.
Bunky’s has a lively history, and was originally opened in the 1930s by Vito “Bunky” Capadona and his wife Ninfa. The first location was in the Italian-influenced Greenbush neighborhood of Madison, where they served pizzas and spaghetti and meatballs.
The current Bunky’s Café owners are their great granddaughter, Teresa Pullara, and her husband, Rachid Ouabel, who have added Mediterranean flavors and opened in the new Atwood Avenue location. Mediterranean fare makes up many of the appetizers, grilled items, seafood and favorites like the falafel plate. Pasta dishes and pizzas make up the Italian portion of the menu. House specialties include, homemade ravioli of the day, pasta and kabobs.
A new visitor is immediately met with the unusual décor, and may feel as if one walked into an eccentric great-aunt’s living room. Floral upholstery on the chairs and heavy dark curtains set the stage for old-time photographs on the walls, and antique-looking nick-knacks around the room. Homemade handbags and jewelry are for sale, which help add to the kitschi- ness of the room.
For those who are interested in food from the grill and enjoy a Mediterranean flavor, the Chicken Shawarma ($14.95) and Kafta Brochette ($16.95) are both good choices. The Shawrma is a hearty portion of saffron-scented basmati rice, topped with grilled chicken marinated until tart, and served with a side of hummus, fresh grilled vegetables and house-made yogurt sauce. The meal can be preceded by an Italian side salad, which is simple, but has a great tasting house-made Italian dressing.
The Kafta Brochette is a house-ground lamb meatloaf, seasoned with Mediterranean spices and formed around a skewer and grilled. It is served with the same accoutrements as the Shawarma, and can be enjoyed after the lentil soup, which is flavorful, thick and rustic, with just the right mix of cumin and other spices. A good idea when dining with others is to try one of the Italian items as well as one of the Mediterranean items and share meals.
Prior to the meal, diners are served warm sliced bread and olive oil for dipping. The falafel appetizer is also alluring and tasty, but the best advice is to save room for the delicious house-made desserts, displayed in a chilled case at one end of the room. However, the only way to ensure you get what dessert fits your fancy is to peek into the case and point out your item to a server to assure you get the one you intended. The cheesecakes come in a variety of flavors, and will not- disappoint your tastebuds.
Refreshingly, Bunky’s accommodates vegetarian and vegan diners, and even has some gluten-free items. They serve beers and wines, but don’t expect a full bar. The waitstaff is friendly, attentive and knowledgeable about the food.
Overall, Bunky’s Café has a funky charm and tasty food, and is fun for a unique dining experience, though not necessarily a weekly visit. The prices are a bit high, but the unusual, fresh flavors and great service are worth the occasional splurge.
Location: 2425 Atwood Avenue, Madison, WI Phone: 608-204-7004
Website: http:// www.bunkyscafe.net/ Payment: Credit Cards accepted
Price Range for Dinner Entrées: $11-23 Cuisine: Italian and Mediterranean
Hours: Monday, 5-9PM; Tuesday through Thursday, 11AM-2PM and 5-9PM; Friday, 11AM-2PM, 5-10PM; Saturday, 11AM-10PM; Sunday, 5-9PM