Named after the artesian craftsmen who once shaped pieces of wood and rings of metal into barrels that held beer, wine, and liquor, The Coopers Tavern is located on the capitol square at 20 West Mifflin Street. The gastropub was opened in early 2010 by Peter McElvanna, a native of Ireland, as a part of the Food Fight Restaurant Group. Though the restaurant has a definite Irish slant, the food and drink are not limited to Irish fare. The variety of craft beers and whiskey in particular is extensive.
The venue consists of a long narrow space with a row of tables against one wall and a sweeping bar against the other. The wood floor, mirrors on the blue walls, and interesting beer taps make for a welcoming, friendly atmosphere. However it should be noted that noise reverberates against all the hard surfaces, making for quite a high sound level on a busy night. So while there is little chance that others will hear your conversation, the same can be said for your dining partner.
The beer selection is vast and fun to read through (Bud or Miller-only drinkers, be forewarned.) Dozens of beers are on tap, both local and international, and many more are stocked in bottles. Murphy’s Irish Stout ($5.50) is a good choice for those looking to celebrate with something a bit different than Guinness, and Magners Pear hard cider from Ireland ($6 for a 19.2 oz bottle) is a refreshing choice that’s fruity, but not too sweet.
The food descriptions sound amazing. A decadent appetizer called poutine is offered that consists of Belgian frites (French fries) covered in brown gravy and melted cheese curds, and is apparently a Canadian classic. Or, if you’re in the mood for deluxe macaroni and cheese entrees made with lobster or pork belly, they’ve got them!
The appetizer list is somewhat eclectic, with fries and hummus alongside the more unusual selections of roasted bone marrow, “Sconnie” egg and poutine. Though many a Wisconsin eater is a likely fan of fries, cheese curds and gravy, the combination of these items in the poutine appetizer ($6.95) seems like a strange, but possibly delicious, fusion. However, the fries are soggy and the cheese melts into oblivion from being drenched in gravy. Whether or not this is representative of a poutine you’d get in Canada, it’s probably worth skipping unless you’re feeling adventurous.
One entree is the fish-and-chips ($13.95), which is reminiscent of the classic Wisconsin Friday fish fry complete with fries, tartar sauce and slaw sides. It is good, but the Haddock is a bit over-breaded and is served on a bed of limp Belgian frites. The unusual-flavored takes on the sides are anchovy tartar sauce, which unfortunately brings out the fishy flavor of the fish, and apple-pear slaw, which doesn’t have quite enough bite and creaminess to both cut and compliment the meal.
The sandwich entrees are interesting and a better bet. The ham sandwich ($8.95) is a very tasty combination of flavors, with local ham, whole grain mustard, caramelized onions, Gouda cheese and red pepper mayo. These are served up on a pretzel roll (it looks and tastes like a pretzel, but is soft), which is made at a local bakery in Milwaukee.
Overall, The Coopers Tavern has a lively mood. It’s the perfect place to meet a few friends for a couple drinks and some unique appetizers.