The Essen Haus is a German restaurant and self-proclaimed “trinken halle” (German for “drinking hall”) located in downtown Madison. Visiting the establishment is a Madison tradition, where many a college student may be found drinking one of the 16 German biers (beers) on tap from a huge communal glass boot that’s passed amongst friends, dancing to the live “oompah” music and eating hot soft pretzels with mustard.
The decor is half charming and half cheesy. Beer steins hang over the bar area, mounted animal heads and guns adorn the walls, and a huge mural depicts a colorful scene over the stage where the musicians play. The waitstaff attire of traditional Bavarian dirndls for women and lederhosen for men definitely add to the flair of the place.
Somehow the ambiance conjures feelings of comfort, family and closeness despite the obvious imbibing. Long banquet tables filled with many chairs point out that this is a place for large gatherings of friends and family, for celebrations and other joyful outings. The live music is definitely a perk, unless you are seeking a quiet, intimate dinner for two. Dancing and raucousness can be had in front of the stage, especially if you’ve partaken in the boot-drinking festivities.
Whether the food is truly authentic or not, the sausages, fried meats, potato salad and sauerkraut all cry out “German,” especially when enjoyed with a glass of imported German beer in hand. One such German entrée is the Bavarian combo ($18.95), which is a weiner schnitzel, weisswurst and jaeger schnitzel served with sauerkraut, German potato salad, rye bread and a side house salad or soup of the day.
The “weisswurst” is a tasty, seasoned “white bratwurst” sausage with a yielding texture of finely ground pork and veal, and is definitely worth trying. The wiener schnitzel is also tender with a light, crispy breading, but didn’t wow with the flavor. The jaeger schnitzel is a pan-fried thin piece of pork tenderloin covered in a gravy of onion, mushroom, white wine and sour cream. It has a delicious flavor reminiscent of stroganoff. The potato salad, rye bread and side salad are all good accompaniments to the meal, but didn’t seem particularly authentic or amazingly flavored. Overall, the Bavarian combo is appetizing and the portion is large enough for two people to split.
Non-German food and beer can be ordered for every course, but that defeats the purpose of visiting a German restaurant. The diner may be wise to choose a main entree and beer only. The appetizer options are unfortunately mostly American-influenced, such as buffalo wings, onion rings and chicken tenders. The reuben rollups ($7.95) are nothing special, since they are overly dense and the sauerkraut was not even discernable in the wraps.
The apfel (apple) strudel dessert ($4.95) is equally lack-luster. Served warm and topped with vanilla ice cream, the great anticipation of the dessert is partially met with a delicious flaky butter crust, but the almost inedible sticky, gloppy apple filling really left something to be desired.
The beer list is truly that: a list only, with no descriptions of the beers. Fortunately, the waitstaff is friendly, helpful, and attentive. They will likely supplement with their best descriptions and possibly a few samples of various brews. The cost of the imported beers ($4.50 for a 12-oz glass of Spaten Optimator Dopplebock, a good dark choice) may be prohibitive for those desiring multiple beers, but the ambiance and food flavors call for at least one.
Overall, the Essen Haus is worth a trip for the experience. The food is somewhat pricy, but the entrées can be split and then complemented with beverages and pretzels. The music and ambiance are festive, and the setting is just right for a celebration with a large gathering of friends and family.