Last week, Heritage Tavern opened its doors on the corner of Mifflin and Webster. It’s a new chance for the location, where Underground Kitchen used to stand before a fire destroyed it, the surrounding businesses and apartments in June 2011. As a seeker of fine food and beverages, I ventured in to see what this highly anticipated new restaurant could offer.
From outside the entrance doors, it was apparent that the kitchen would be in full view of restaurant guests. Patrons sipping complex and creative libations at the bar were mere feet away from the chefs rapidly chopping, sauteing and simmering a variety of locally-sourced and gourmet ingredients. A large glass case displayed house-made sausages, tempting diners to try a taste of the charcuterie. There is nothing to hide at Heritage Tavern.
After speaking with the host we were quickly seated. Perusing the menu, I could sense the urgency and slight panic of the staff. It was, after all, only the second the night they opened to the public, and flow of diner service is not perfectly smooth.
“We need water, like everywhere.”
I hear a server behind me speaking softly to another. I have water, and expected the busy atmosphere, so I came with both an appetite and patience. It’s 7:10, right in the middle of the dinner rush. The restaurant is mostly full, with patrons tucked into black leather booths and dark wooden tables.
I turn my attention to the cocktail menu, which is an interesting read in itself. It features craft beers from breweries around the world, including Wisconsin. I consider the “Garden Party,” a house cocktail featuring cucumber, St. Germain and Tullamore Dew whiskey. However, not in a boozy mood, I chose a homemade root beer for $3, rather than $10 for the cocktail. My dining partner/husband chose a Wisco Pop Ginger beer. Our server takes our drink order, along with an order for the house chips. Soon, both drinks arrived in full pints with no ice. The root beer was definitely different. It was mildly spiced, and reminded me of bitters and molasses.
An amuse-bouche arrives at the table, compliments of the chef for opening week. Amuse-bouche is French for “mouth fun.” It’s a minute first course with a taste of the chef’s style and prepares the taste buds for the coming meal. We munched on pickled vegetables and fresh bread complemented with butter and sea salt. The vegetables are tangy and bright, a mix of beets, beans and cucumbers. The bread was a tiny soft bun, rich in itself and even better with butter.
When our server returned, she took our order of two entrees – hickory nut udon noodle and tomato concasse. We were still waiting on our house chips. Service was generally very slow, but I expect it to be expedited within the coming weeks. Eventually, the chips arrive, a crispy variety of vegetables and “deep-fried-rice air.” My vegan husband accidentally consumed a pork rind, assuming it to be another type of rice crisp. (Whoops.)
Heritage Tavern sources their pork from a farm owned by the restaurant’s chef, and we’re assured that they were happy pigs at least.
Our entrees arrived, beautifully presented on elegant white ceramic. My udon noodles are floating in a bowl of savory brown broth surrounded by fresh mushrooms, bok choy and water chestnuts. It’s a moderate portion, and very tasty.
The tomato concasse however, stuck me silent between bites. A large whole tomato is sliced thick and then re-stacked with couscous and green beans between the layers. Small sweet tomatoes speckled the dish, lightly dressed with vinaigrette, and more than once I found my fork crossing the table to vulture off his plate.
Our plates now empty and bellies satiated, the server returns to inquire about dessert. Politely declining, we settle the check and head toward the door, reflecting on the meal.
Lush tastes were still lingering on my tongue and I was already thinking of what I might try next time. Snacks, meat and cheese plates, appetizers and desserts all called to me from the menu. And my curiosity for new dishes demands that I will go back for more.